How to fit coving

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Woodie's DIY will show you how to put up coving. This is a really simple job and adds real character to a room.

How to do it

Step 1

Before you begin cover the area your working in with a dust sheet. To find the guideline for your wall and ceiling read the manufacturers instructions or simply hold a small section of coving in place and mark along the top and bottom with a pencil. Do this in regular intervals around the room.

Step 2

Alternatively, mark along the top and bottom of a piece of coving in each corner of the room. Then tap a panel pin onto the bottom mark at one corner.

Step 3

Wrap a chalk line around the panel pin and extend to the other corner where you marked. Ensure that the chalk line is taut and lined up correctly from your marks. Then simply pull the chalk line out from the wall and let it snap back into place.

Step 4

This will leave a mark across the wall which is now your guideline for coving. Alternatively use a spirit level to join up the markings giving you a frame for where the coving will be.

Step 5

Remove all traces of soft distemper, loose plaster, wallpaper or flaking paint from the wall and ceiling surfaces between the guidelines. Run a multi-purpose detector along the area and mark the position of any wires or pipes.

Step 6

Score the wall and ceiling between these lines with a utility knife. This will provide a key for the adhesive.

Step 7

Start on the longest wall. Measure and cut a length of coving.

Step 8

When measuring and marking each length of cove always measure along the wall guideline. Transfer the measurements taken from the wall onto the back of the cove marked 'wall edge' and mark the position of the cut required, marking up to the lip of the cove.

If your longest wall requires more than one length of coving to cover it, simply butt or mitre join two pieces of coving together with adhesive and fill any gap with filler.

Step 9

To cut the right hand piece simply place it in the mitre box making sure the wall side of the coving is against the side of the box closest to you and the ceiling side of the coving is at the bottom of the box. Then you simply cut from the bottom left to the top right.

Step 10

Alternatively you can join two pieces of coving together using a 90° butt joint. This is easier to do but the finish is not as seamless.

Step 11

Lightly sand the edges after cutting to get rid of any rough edges.

Step 12

To fix the coving in position, spread a 'wedge-shaped' band of cove adhesive generously onto the back of the wall and ceiling edges of the cove. You don’t need to do the middle section of the cove, as this will not be in contact with any surface.

Step 13

Position the cove between the guidelines and push firmly into place. Use a damp cloth or paint scraper to wipe off any excess adhesive.

Step 14

Tap panel pins at 600mm intervals into the wall and ceiling either side of the coving. This will provide additional support while the adhesive sets.

Step 15

To find the correct measurements for the corner pieces of coving measure the distance from the corner to the coving already in position on the wall. Add a little extra to allow for paring down bearing in mind you have to cut a 45° angle to complete your mitre joint with your last piece of coving. Transfer these measurements onto your next piece of coving.

Step 16

When sawing a right hand piece of an internal corner make sure the wall edge of the coving is sitting against the mitre box side closest to you. Place the coving in the right hand side of the box with the ceiling edge of the coving sitting at the base of the box. Simply cut a 45° angle from the bottom left to the top right.

Step 17

Then apply adhesive and fix to the wall.

Step 18

For the left hand piece of an internal corner make sure the wall edge of the coving is sitting against the mitre box side closest to you and place the coving in the left hand side of the box making sure the ceiling edge of the coving is against the base of the box. Simply cut at a 45° angle from bottom right to top left.

Step 19

When finished bring back to the wall to make sure you are happy with the finished result before you apply your adhesive. If necessary you can trim the coving even further to fit. Remember on an internal corner, the wall face is always the long end of the mitre.

Step 20

For an external corner, again use a mitre box and saw to create a 45° angle at the end of each length of coving.

Step 21

For the right hand piece of an external corner simply put the wall edge of the coving sitting against the mitre box side closest to you. You place the coving in the right hand side of the box and ensure the ceiling edge of the coving is against the base of the box. Simply cut a 45° angle from the bottom right to the top left.

Step 22

For the left hand piece of an external corner put the coving in the mitre box with the wall edge of the coving against the mitre box side closest to you. You place the coving in the left hand side of the box and the ceiling edge of the coving against the bottom of the box. Simply cut at a 45° angle from the bottom left to the top right.

Step 23

Remember on an external corner the wall face is always the shorter end of the mitre.

You can buy specially designed corner pieces of coving if you want to enhance the finish of the corners and cover any gaps in the corner of your mitre joints. These also allow you to avoid having to make the corner joints yourself. Simply apply adhesive to the back of the corner pieces and push into place. Wipe away any excess adhesive.

Step 24

When you have completed fixing the coving, fill in any gaps in the joints or mitred corners with a suitable filler, remove any supporting panel pins and then wipe with a sponge. You can lightly sand these joints later for a smooth finish.